What’s the Best Brush for Cutting In? A Pro Painter’s Guide for Massachusetts Homes.
If you’ve ever tried cutting in along a ceiling line or around trim, you know it’s one of the most detail-demanding parts of interior painting. Choosing the right brush can make the difference.
At JCB Painting, we’ve cut miles of sharp lines across homes in Mansfield, Foxboro, and surrounding towns. I recently came across a great article from Hyde Tools that dives into what makes a great cutting-in brush. I wanted to share some of their key takeaways, along with how I apply them on real jobs here in Southeastern Massachusetts.
🖌️ 1. Use the Right Brush Type (My Go-To Is a 2” Angled Sash)
Hyde recommends an angled sash brush for cutting in—and I couldn’t agree more. It gives me just enough precision to get into corners while holding enough paint to make a smooth, consistent line.
I typically use a 2” angled synthetic brush. It’s the perfect size for working around baseboards, ceilings, and door trim in the homes I paint, especially the older colonials around Taunton, Easton and Norton that have tighter trim and uneven plaster lines.
🔍 Pro Tip: If you’re painting with latex (water-based) paint, always go with synthetic bristles. Natural bristles can swell and lose shape.
🧵 2. Bristle Stiffness: Go Medium for Smooth Walls, Stiff for Textured or Old Plaster.
Hyde points out that bristle stiffness affects how crisp your lines come out. In my experience:
Medium-stiff brushes are ideal for newer drywall and smooth surfaces—like many of the newer builds in Mansfield or Plainville.
Stiff brushes come in handy when I’m working on older homes, like those in Attleboro or Dighton, where the walls may be textured, patched, or slightly uneven.
A brush that’s too soft won’t give you control. Too stiff? You’ll see brush marks. That’s why I test every brush before putting it in my main rotation.
🪵 3. Handle Matters More Than You Think
You might not think about brush handles, but after cutting in for 4+ hours straight, your hand will. Hyde Tools recommends wood handles in the 6–8" range, and I agree.
Personally, I use a short, contoured wood handle that fits my grip. It’s lighter, gives me more control near the ceiling line, and doesn’t fatigue my wrist as fast.
🎯 Pro insight: If you're doing your own painting at home, don’t overlook comfort, especially for ceiling cut-ins. It’s worth spending a few dollars more for a brush that feels good in your hand. Never buy cheap brushes because you get what you pay for.
🔦 4. Technique is Just as Important as the Tool
The brush gets you halfway there—the technique finishes the job. Hyde recommends tips like keeping a light source on the surface, holding the brush at a 45° angle, and loading the brush properly. After dipping the brush in the paint from a real painting pot, (never paint out of the can or a 1 pint cup, only amatures do that) don't scrape the paint off the brush, instead gently pat the brush to the inside of the pot for each side of the brush and you will have a fully loaded brush without it dripping.
Here’s what I do every time I cut in:
Work toward the light: So I can always see the edge clearly.
Start ½" away from the edge, then ease the brush in gently—no need to rush the first pass.
Use painter’s tape only when needed (especially on tricky transitions like wall-to-cabinet), but 90% of my cut-ins are done freehand.
🏡 My Go-To Brush for Cutting In
If you're curious what brush I use daily—it’s typically a Wooster, 2” angled, extra-firm. Great for latex paint, and gives me precision on all types of trim, ceilings, and transitions.
✨ Final Thoughts: Trust Your Tools—and the Painter Holding Them
The right brush makes the job easier, but the real secret to sharp cut lines is experience. At JCB Painting, we bring the right tools—and years of steady hands—to every interior job we take on in Mansfield and beyond.
Thinking about a repaint? Want perfect edges and clean transitions?
📞 Call JCB Painting or contact us online—we’re happy to walk you through the process or give you a quote.
